Another Culture

I couldn’t resist going to Morocco while I was in Spain; the concept of immersing myself in another culture completely different from whatever I had experienced before was a tempting one that was impossible to ignore. I thought of Morocco first and foremost because it is so close to the Andalusia region of Spain, and secondly because I thought it appropriate to visit clear across the other side of the ocean where I had visited Tarifa earlier between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic.

As part of our program, however, we managed to do an activity that, in retrospect, I fully appreciate now that my trip is over. Our leader asked us to think carefully and write down whatever image of Morocco (misconceptions now) we might have. When I came back, and looked at what I had written, I was both surprised and grateful at what I had written, both because I was completely wrong in certain assumptions, but also because my image had been replaced with a far more correct version.

Then I realized that this was one of the best things about traveling, in my book. I feel the most satisfied and happy about certain traveling experiences when I manage to use that experience to break whatever stereotype I originally had.

What I found was a truly interesting place, with different concepts about religion, fashion, women, and even food. Too much to post, here are some quick aspects that might surprise you;

-Certain places do not change or buy new clothes, but rather, dye them a different color according to the seasons and appropriate festivals. As such, dyes are sold more frequently than clothes.

-Most stop whatever they are doing at the moment and plan around praying 5 times a day at specific intervals, all at the same time.

-In certain touristy spots, you will encounter sometimes up to 8 languages from the same shopkeeper who knows that the key to good sales is to speak the native tongue.

- It is not only the norm, but a necessary tool to haggle as this is the primary way of buying many things, from food and trinkets, to clothes and even certain medicines.

- No one gets any food in bulk; in fact, it is common to buy once a day rather than once every so often. As such, most food is always fresh.

- A woman told me that she feels sorry for American women who are expected to show as much skin as possible. (This one made my eyes go wide.)

I went back to Spain, stomach full of spices, with that much more of an open mind.

What Studying Abroad is All About

Last weekend a very important thought came up.  We were in Malaga and most of the hostels were full, so where would we sleep? Malaga, known for lush fields in Andalusia, wasn’t exactly a big city and it was getting kind of late. Thinking outside of certain comfort zones, the immediate default was to sleep in the car, rather uncomfortably to be honest.

As it got colder, we realized there was a tent in the car, gears started churning, and this led to one of the best nights of my life.

As we set up on the beach for a long night, the fishing rod that was also in the trunk was screwed in and the hours melted away with stargazing, a campfire meal with canned food, and card playing under the brightest moonlight I have ever experienced.

I sat and thought about where I was and how I got there. Under the stars, I realized that these moments where what studying abroad was all about. It isn’t about seeing as much as you can and doing as much as you can fit within a certain amount of time. It’s about changing your perception and enjoying the moment. More importantly, it’s about yourself. And let me tell you, thinking about myself for hours on a beach at night, I learned more than I ever could glimpsing at the Eiffel tower, Big Ben, and the Coliseum in less than 3 days.

I feel like I’m starting to finally know this person who’s been living in my body for so long. More importantly, I like him.  When you remove yourself from comforts, you begin to know yourself in that way.

The sun rose, and the cold water called to us. Exhausted, we made our way back to Seville, with sand everywhere, dirty, hungry, and with the stupidest grins on our faces.

Worth the Walk (Granada)

Roman ruins and mountainous views. Granada is famous for many things, from the food, the people, and the fresh air, but I will remember it fondly for how I felt when i was there. The famous Alhambra lit up for the night and the whole place buzzed with people and dancing. Unlike Seville, Granada stays up most of the night with free tapas and loud music to accommodate everyone.

Sometimes it’s hard to branch out from the group. Sometimes it can be challenging finding places to go to that you haven’t been to already. Other times you have to look around and set a goal for yourself, follow it, and you may be surprised at what you find. In my case, me and a couple of others decided, rather than shopping or eating during our free time, to pick the farthest looking tiny chapel that we could see and try to walk to it from where we were. Granada isn’t flat like some places in Spain, so spacially, it was easy to know where we were at any given moment.

Reluctance and regret washed over us as it seemed as if we were walking upwards for two hours. What we saw when we got there however, made thinking about walking even longer worth it.

As we looked at the sunset from what we thought had to have been the highest point in this town, all of us clicked in tune, mentally. This is Spain; these mountains, the sun, the wind, the chorus of voices, the lack of cars running, the brightly lit castles…

We got back to the hotel, image still fresh in our minds, and couldn’t imagine what would have happened if we didn’t set such a hard goal for ourselves. The outcome is that the harder you have to work at it the grater the benefit.  During the rest of my stay here, I won’t forget that.

Gibraltar

When I was told about Gibraltar, it didn’t seem like something real, like  a place such as this existed somewhere in the world. I had to go and see it for myself, and luckily, a few people went with me to wonder at it.

I magine for a second that one day, Rhode Island decided that it didn’t want to be a part of the United States of America anymore. That they were sick of it and wanted to become their own separate body and country, with a flag and everything. This is similar to Gibraltar; officially owned, run, and governed by England and the British Police, the whole place comes complete with usage of pounds, British food, British guards, and even road signs in English.

It was like walking into a different world, even though Spanish soil was a few feet away. A quick flash of the passport and we were in, eating fish and chips and playing with monkeys.

http://www.youtube.com/lordkiatsu#p/u/1/F1RC6cZs-xI

That’s right, monkeys… the place hosts a big mountain that’s inhabited by monkeys that run free on the trails. The most adorable little things, they are use to humans and are never afraid of putting on a show.

Sitting on a bench, eating a sandwich I was sharing with one of the monkeys, I thought about the peaceful set up they had here and wondered where else I have encountered such a thing. I shrugged and stared at the sunset with them and just enjoyed the moment while i still could. They’ll easily forget me, the man with the loaves of bread with meat in it; but i won’t soon forget them.

Tarifa

Tarifa was a particularly exceptional experience. The town is at the southern-most section of Spain, a tiny area jutting out across from Africa separating the Atlantic from the Mediterranean with an invisible line straight through the middle. The town hosts a particular sort of people; a hippie-like surfer culture who surfs during the day and sells custom-made surfboards and tourist articles by night. The highlight though has to be the location; being able to experience two different bodies of water at one point was amazing. The wind there is colossal, spawning dozens of kite surfing schools and shops who provide more than rentals.

A cheap hostel stay was enough to convince me and my friends to stay there for the night and we weren’t disappointed. Unlike the lively nights that one may have in Sevilla, our dinner and bar experience was more of a chill, slow and happy one as the music that was played was relaxing and atmospheric.

http://www.youtube.com/lordkiatsu#p/u/2/INDXLMSw0Fc

This was a particularly mind opening experience as I could, easier than ever before, imagine myself on a map where I was and what direction I was facing. For the first time in my life I knew exactly where I was physically to the exact point, something I’ve never experienced before. Gratitude for this trip does not express what I feel.

Religion

I expected lots of things when I landed in Spain. I expected a bigger version of what I was used to in Puerto Rico.  I expected certain Spanish dialects; heck, I expected lots of bright colors as well, and for the most part, I was right in many of my expectations.

One expectation and learned misconception I was not ready for was religious civility.

What exactly do I mean by that? It’s a strange thing to wrap my mind around, but for some reason I expected Spain to be a hub for Catholicism. My experiences in the United States have taught me that everywhere you go, people impose religion on you in one way shape or another, whether on street fliers, general everyday conversations, or through the media. So surely, you can see why my thought process led me to believe that those ideas might be imposed on me while in Spain.

That couldn’t be farther from the truth. While it IS certain that the majority here are Catholics, everyone keeps to themselves. For Sevilla, such a place with deep religious morals, beliefs, and history, I found this not only to be surprising but a very contemporary way of living. When I think about how I’ve seen people with bloody fliers of Jesus demanding you repent, I wonder why that doesn’t happen here in the country that started THE RECONQUISTA and the SPANISH INQUISITION. Or maybe that’s precisely why.  The misfortune due to religion from the past has perhaps given the people a sense of not wanting to repeat its history.

This was all just a side note, but one that I appreciate because no matter what you believe and where you come from, people here respect that and respect you even if they don’t understand it.

For such an old city, it’s morally as progressive as it gets.

Cadiz

The amount of excursions we take as part of the CIEE program is absolutely astounding, considering most of them are included in the price. While many of them require a bit of walking and are possible to take on your own,  once can a lot more with the program coordinators.

My first was to Cadiz; not far from Seville (about a 2 hour bus ride). Cadiz hosts some interesting churches and a famous stretch of road that tears through the city. What made it spectacular, however, is it’s location on the southwest of Spain facing the sea, and the fact that it is a long strip of land. Cadiz is the oldest Andalusian city, and it is still used by the Spanish Navy today.

It is not very likely you will get lost in Cadiz; since it is a strip of land jutting out form the rest of Spain, there are only two main directions in which to go to, and the rest of it is laid out in a grid, much like New York City.

The highlights would have to include the Roman theater ruins, the fried fish specialties, and of course, the beaches. While Sevilla is beautiful in every way, the heat is even more palpable when you realize that there is no body of water in sight other than a heavily trafficked river cutting through the outskirts. Walking through Cadiz, the fresh breezes made the morning sun a welcome guest rather than something to hide from.

As we got back into the bus, exhausted, most of us realized that there was so much more to Andalusia that we had yet to see. Many of these trips only cover the surface of everything that is the south of Spain, and a part of me twinged with happiness knowing that I had only begun to fully know everything around me.

The first of many trips was amazing, and there are still so many to come.  I can’t wait.

Quick Guide to Seville

The following may be just assumptions since I have only been here for 2 weeks. I figured since I haven’t talked much about the customs here that I would throw down a list of quirks and noticeable traits about Seville that may not be the norm back in the states.

1. No one dries their clothes in a dryer. I’ve been to a few department stores lately, and most don’t even carry dryers. Because of this, you do laundry every week. Not because you can’t fit more clothes into the washer and do it, say, every 3 or 4 weeks, but because if you do a big load at once, your apartment will end up looking ludicrous as you back and forth between the abundance of air-drying clothes you’ve managed to fit into every nook and cranny of your place.

2. No one eats on Sundays, or rather, you eat very little. Everything shuts down as if the world around you was preparing for a natural disaster. As such, preparing or asking for a bocadillo, a sandwich (although that’s an overstatement; these are just bread and ham), the night before is customary and necessary if you want to eat at the end of every week.

3. People love Hollywood movies here. El Caballero Negro, La Linterna Verde, Thor (okay, that one wasn’t different in title, but still). The Spanish Government is currently on a heavy kick to promote more spanish films as a means of taking a chunk of the market.

4. You’re either for el equipo Betis or Sevilla F.C , both soccer teams from the region. Nothing else exists. Barcelona or Madrid teams may be acceptable only if playing during finals.

5. No one tips. If you tip, it is either because you do not want to carry the coin change, or because they did exceptionally well. There is no social stigma requiring you to tip; 3% will be considered crazy by any standards, let alone the customary 15% to 20% back home.

6. Few people have contract phones. Most are prepaid and goes on a need basis which is very low, as it is considered rude to prefer a phone conversation over meeting someone in person. Sevillanos are clever by establishing a social system called a “toque”. You email someone or make a meeting with someone and when you get there, you call the other party and hang up before they can answer. When they see a missed call, it can be assumed that the person is either waiting at the place or available to meet. As such, no one answers their phone on the first ring, just to see if it is a “toque” or not. Since no one answered the call, no minutes were used, and no money was wasted.

7. Much of the food here is tapas, small appetizer-like portions of food that are eaten throughout the day; this is since Sevillanos meet so often in person.

That’s it for now; additional items will become available as soon as I know they exist.

The Moment

Everyone has it.  Sometimes it comes quickly, as soon as you step off the plane for a chosen few. Other times it happens late, weeks after the initial orientation. For others it can be unexpected, while some choose to truly sit down and force it to sink in.  However, for me, the moment I realized I wasn’t going back home and I was truly studying abroad happened today.

I thought long and hard…vacation time was over. Orientation was over. I had chosen my classes, and the reality sunk in that I wasn’t leisurely spending some days here, I wasn’t just coming with as much money as I can to use in a few days; I was living here. Truly living here for an extended period. I am about to live, eat, and breathe Seville through the most seemingly boring process; routine.

Except it won’t be. The concept of routine can be immediately thought of mundane, a mindless repetition of of events that seem to go slower than the previous ones. The fact is, this is the most efficient and exciting way to really get to know your country. Until I have breakfast the same way I did last week, until I see some of the same people everyday and start to develop friendships, until I see my 30th weekend sunset over the river, I am just a tourist. The gift of travel lies in seeing sights that are new and beautiful to you; the gift of study abroad lies in truly LIVING somewhere fresh, to gain a new perspective, to test your ideals, and to add that experience to your repertoire.

I can sit here right now and tell you about the amazing discotheque I went to this weekend. I can sit here and tell you I went to feed some ducks on a paddle boat at 8 in the morning. I can sit here and tell you most of the common spots and sights that Seville has to offer. With all probability I will, here and there, but there is one thing I’m looking forward to; and that is telling you about my day-to-day experiences.

After today, I kick off my shoes and put on someone else’s. No more advisors to guide me, no more group leaders to show me the ropes; there is nothing but me and my language to hold the reins of my ride.  This is the moment. And it will change everything.

La Residencia en Sevilla

It’s been almost two wonderful weeks here in Seville. The food is magnificent, the people are amazing, the sights are both modern and classic… it’s going to be a tough time leaving by the end of the program. After having lived in Puerto Rico for most of my life, I can definitely say that the similarities between both places are impeccable. From the cobblestone streets, to the food, to the lax accents spoken by the people, I feel right at home here. More so is the fact that I opted to live in the residencia rather than at a homestay.

Having grown up with a spanish-speaking family and being slightly more advanced in my language than most others on this programs, the allure of staying with a host diminished with every moment I thought of it. My background is fairly unique.  There are certainly positive and negative experiences to both. 

While I must say the food here at the residencia leaves something to be desired, there i nothing like the sense of freedom you experience. You get to see your own sights, keep things at your own pace, but more importantly, you get to interact with students from all over the country as your roomates and at lunch. It’s a fresh experience for those who don’t want an immersive family scenario. 

Case in point, both of my roommates are vastly different, and yet we all get along so well. Fernando from Argentina and Marc from France are both residents here with me, and I’m learning so much from them already. Together we have already traversed the majority of the city from the roman ruins, to the muslim influenced catholic castles, the city is a playground for those interested in history. The balance of time is magnificent here; the newest structure in Sevilla houses roman ruins underneath it, something not only beutiful, but tastefully done.

Until i start taking University Classes, however, I will still feel like a tourist. I can’t wait for them to start and for me to truly start living like a Sevillano.